Thursday, February 14, 2008

Some interesting facts about Italy:

  1. Italians used to have large families, however Italy is now known for having Europe's lowest birthrate.
  2. The average Italian family has 1.27 children.
  3. Almost 20% of the population is over 65 years old.
  4. The average Italian consumes 25 kilograms (56 pounds) of pasta a year.
  5. Italy's contributions to science include the typewriter, the thermometer, the electric battery, nitroglycerin, eyeglasses and wireless telegraphy.
  6. Not less important… the ice cream cone is also an Italian invention.
  7. Leonardo da Vinci (1452- 1519) was one of the greatest inventors of history. His designs include (only to mention a few) parachutes, tanks, planes, water drills, swing bridges, bicycles and contact lenses.
  8. The Italian flag is inspired by the French flag introduced during Napoleon's invasion of the peninsula.
  9. Italy is the fourth most visited country in the world.
  10. Italy has more hotel rooms than any other nation in Europe.
  11. The average Italian consumes about 100 liters (26 gallons) of wine a year! ...now that explains a lot about Italian driving.
  12. Italy is the world's fifth largest industrial economy.
  13. The area around Venice is the wealthiest region in Europe.
  14. Barely a third of Italy's land is suitable for farming.
  15. Italy has a resident foreign population of 1.27 million.
  16. 98% of Italians are Roman Catholic.
  17. The colors of the Italian flag represent three virtues: hope (green), faith (white), and charity (red).

Thursday, January 24, 2008

Ragusa Ibla Walking Tour:

Hey there! It's been a while, but I'm back with my suggested Ragusa Ibla walking tour (click on the map to enlarge):


1- Take Corso Mazzini downwards towards Ibla. You’ll arrive to a small square. You’ll see the Church of the Madonna dell'Idria. Built in the 14th century, this church belonged to the legendary Knights of Malta (if you read Dan Brown and you’re drawn to templar-conspiracy theories, you’ll probably enjoy this detail). It’s name (from greek) stands for “She who shows the way”. The church was restored in the 18th century in the late baroque style that characterizes the entire Val di Noto.

2- Next to the church you’ll see Palazzo Cosentini with some interesting balconies featuring grotesque masks.

3- Keep going on Via del Mercato you’ll arrive to a square. On your right, you’ll see the Church of the Anime Sante del Purgatorio (Church of the Holy Souls of Purgatory) on top of a flight of stairs. The church's bell tower's has its foundations on one of Ibla's ancient Byzantine walls.

4- A few yards from the church you’ll see the 18th century Palazzo Sortino Trono, another example of local Baroque architecture.

5- Keep walking along Via Del Mercato and turn right on any of the narrow streets until you reach Via Capitan Occhipinti. You’ll find the main square Piazza Duomo ending in Ibla’s centrepiece, the Chiesa di San Giorgio (St. George’s Church). Built by siracusan architect Rosario Gagliardi. The church was built in the 18th century on the site where an older church stood before the 1693’s earthquake. The dome was a later addition of architect Carmelo Cultrari and was finished in the 19th century.

6- Turn your back to San Giorgio’s Church and keep walking towards Piazza Pola. On your right you’ll see another couple of interesting buildings: The Circolo di Conversazione (a sort of private gentleman’s club unfortunately not open to the public).

7- And the Palazzo Donnafugata.

8- On your left you’ll see another church (it seems you can never have enough churches in Italy) the Church of San Giuseppe

9- And the Palazzo Comunale (the City Hall).

10- Following Corso 25 Aprile and then Via Giardini, guess what you’ll see? Yup, yet another Church, the Church of Santo Tomasso on your left.

11- Keep going ‘till you find yourself in front of a gated park called Giardino Ibleo. The garden is very pleasant and it also contains… not one but THREE churches (I rest my case). The first one is the Church of San Domenico.

12- The second one is the Church of San Giacomo, originally built in the 14th century, the interior has a beautiful ceiling painted by Matteo Battaglia.

13- The third church inside the gardens is the Church of the Cappucini. All three churches had to be rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake.

14- Right outside the park, on your left, you’ll find Il Portale di San Giorgio (Saint George’s Doorway) built in Gothic style, it depicts St. George slaying the dragon. It’s all that remained of the ancient Church of Saint George, after the earthquake.

Enjoy!

Sunday, September 9, 2007

For cheese lovers only


As promised, here’s some info about cheese:

Casa del Formaggio Sant'Anna di Dipasquale: (THE cheese house). Definitely one of the best places to buy cheese in Ragusa

I know they sell one of the best “Ragusano DOP” cheese in the area, and "Pecorino Siciliano" (made with sheep milk). Also I suggest you try one of the wine spreads they sell that you can eat with the cheese. I tried the Zibibbo and Pasito wine spreads (Zibibbo and Pasito are desert wines from Sicily).

Casa del Formaggio Sant'Anna di Dipasquale
Corso Italia 387, Ragusa - Tel: 0932 227485

The Azienda Occhipinti is is a rural farm that make different types of cheese, they might show you how they make their cheese if you call them in advance and ask when it would be best to come. I don’t believe they have anything organised like a tour or so, but possibly they will show you around anyway. They might not speak English though.

Azienda Agro-zootecnica Giuseppe Occhipinti
Contrada San Giacomo - 97100 Ragusa
Tel: 0932 231669

The Corfilac is a good place to see how cheese is made. Every 2 years the Corfilac organises a great event in Ragusa called Cheese Art, between June and July. The next one will be in 2008. They have cheese, wine and beer tasting and pairing, you can buy cheese, wine, salami and other related stuff. They have experts explaining the main features of different kinds of cheese from around the world and, of course, local ones. There’s also live music, plays, etc. Last year it was organised in the gardens of the beautiful Donnafugata Castle.

Corfilac Headquarters: S.P. 25 Km 5 Ragusa Mare 97100 Ragusa (on the street from Ragusa to Marina di Ragusa) Tel: +39 0932 660 411 • Cheese department: +39 0932 660 484/+39 0932 660 485. Call first for an appointment.

Another must while in Sicily is the Ricotta cheese. Ricotta is a fresh cheese made of sheep or cow’s milk. It’s name comes from the fact that it’s ingredients need to be cooked twice. In Sicily they have Italy’s most famous ricotta, and they use it in different ways: sweet ricotta (the ricotta cannoli are amazing here), dry ricotta (ricotta salata) used for pasta alla norma, or fresh ricotta with sun dried tomatos or alone. You can try it in any agriturismo or buy it in any supermarket, farm or cheese shop.

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

10 Tips for a tourist visiting Sicily


1- Try to rent a car and invest in a good map, more often than not places are not clearly indicated. Fortunately people are usually pretty patient, and will try to help you find your way.

2- Visit the amazing Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples (Valle dei Tempi) with an impressive array of well preserved Greek temples dating from 400-500 BC. I strongly recommend that you avoid this visit in august. If you have no choice, you can take a few precautions: apply sunscreen, wear a hat and carry a bottle of water, you’ll be walking under the sun for a long time and the temperature can easily reach the 100º Fahrenheit. I recommend that you go on the first two weeks of February if possible, during the almond tree festival that celebrates Agrigento’s early blossom of the almond trees.

3- Have a "Granita" with "Brioche"... granita is a sort of sherbet made of a frozen mix of water, sugar and flavoring. Usually you’ll find such flavors as coffee, chocolate, pistachio, almond, lemon, strawberry and other fruits. The brioche is a sort of semi-circular muffin, that you can dip in your granita... If you plan to go to the city of Noto, don’t miss the best granita ever! Mandolfiore - Via Ducezio 2, Noto, Siracusa - Tel: 0931-836-615.

4- Visit the Villa at Casale, a Roman Villa dating from the 4th century located in Piazza Armerina. This villa represents an extraordinary testimony to the life in the roman era thanks to the lively scenes represented in the mosaic covered floors. These superb mosaics are really well preserved. Tel: +39 0935-680036

5- Some great cities include Palermo, Taormina with it’s impressive greek theater and dramatic sea view, Catania under the Etna volcano, and the cities of the Noto Valley (Noto, Siracusa, Modica and Ragusa) with some of the finest examples of late baroque architecture. While in Siracusa, make sure you visit the island of Ortygia, and while in Ragusa, the picturesque Ibla.

6- Let’s talk about food… it’s really hard to have a bad meal in Sicily. But each region has it’s specialties, so I recommend you ask in the restaurant about the typical food of that particular place and try it. Some examples include pane and panelle in Palermo (at the famous Antica focacceria San Francesco) Palermo, Via A. Paternostro, 58 - Tel. 091320264 - Closed on Tuesdays.

In the Ragusa area, I recommend you try the Ragusano DOP cheese with honey, and anything with the extra virgin olive oil from Giarratana. In Noto, the granita, (see number 3). In Catania, go to the kiosk in the main square and ask for "sgricchio" (SGREECHEEO) a sort of refreshing soda with different flavours, I like mandarina (tangerine). In Modica you should try the chocolate, any of their typical pastries and my favourite, the chocolate-chili liquor. In Bronte, the pistachio… and I coud go on and on for days since every place preserves it’s own traditions and flavours.

7- For a full meal, I would start with an antipasto (starter) of anything with eggplant (melanzana) or seafood. A first course will have to include at least a pasta dish, like pasta alla norma (again pasta with eggplant and ricotta, two of the icons of Sicilian cooking). The second or main course often includes fish or meat. I found the red meat for the most part disappointing, they also eat horse meat (it has a sweeter taste but can be quite though). If you are a carnivore, I believe the pork is a much better choice. If you can live without meat, have any of the excellent fish and seafood, often cooked with mastery.

8- If you want to stay in a more “authentic” way, there are Bed & Breakfasts everywhere, sometimes built in old houses that can let you experience the construction, furniture and decoration to have a closer look of local culture. If you are on a budget and you travel with a group of 3 to 4 people or more, you could try a vacation house, usually available on weekly basis. This is always a cheaper and less commercial way to stay. Another alternative can be an Agriturismo, italian farmhouses in or around a rural area, that produce their own food and sometimes offer accomodation so you can live the whole farm experience. The room type can vary a lot depending on the facility (private or shared bathrooms, etc). It is always wise to ask first... Some interesting websites: http://www.insidesicily.it, or http://www.agriturismo-sicilia.it/

9- As for the climate, I guess I've all been spoiled by L.A's perfect weather. Ragusa has a not-so-great climate, here winter is cold and (very) humid, specially by the sea, and summer is warm and sunny, but can get REALLY hot... luckily you can forget all that by consuming large amounts of creamy gelato. Anyway, I think good food, great beaches and a calendar full of holidays make up for the weather, which is probably still better than in many northern European countries. As for the rest of Sicily, it has reportedly better weather than Ragusa. So don’t worry too much… just remember to pack your sunscreen... or an extra pair of gloves!

10- Sicily offers, countless historical monuments, many natural wonders from sandy beaches with warm water to natural parks like the “Reserva dello Zingaro,” the "Gole del Alcantara" or the Etna park. You also have any of the smaller islands like the Aeolian islands on the north east or the islands of Ustica (great for snorkeling) and Pantelleria (with clear influence of arab culture). Sicily is a place where the landscape, the tradition and the people show a different sensibility than the rest of Italy. A place whith it’s own personality and many options for tourism (beaches, landscapes, art, architecture, food and history).

Friday, July 13, 2007

Agritourism / Farmhouses / Agriturismi

The agriturismi are italian farmhouses in or around a rural area, that produce their own food. They cultivate their own produce and raise their own farm animals. Many agritourisms offer accomodation so you can live the whole farm experience, and others offer a restaurant, where you can taste typical regional food cooked with ingredients fresh from the farm. From the wine to the cheese to the bread, everything is done in-site and thus is very genuine.

I highly recommend that you eat in an agritourism at least once. They serve a fixed menu with a very reasonable price per person, but be warned that they serve a LOT of food. Usually you would start with appetizers, at least two first pasta courses and two second courses (fish or meat), dessert and probably abundant house wine. After all that you can have some coffee and a glass of some highly alcoholic liquor like grappa or amaro. You must book in advance as they normally have limited seating and might also have specific seating hours, so they can serve the whole restaurant at the same time.

There are a lot of agritourisms around Ragusa, I’ll mention a few I’ve been in:

At Azienda Agricola Magazzè it’s all about buffalo. This is actually one of my favourite agriturismi in terms of food quality. Maybe because I just love mozzarella… life without mozzarella is impossible.

Our menu included buffalo mozzarella cheese (made daily from buffalo milk) with prosciutto ham, pan fried breaded buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomato-basil salad, and pizza with buffalo mozzarella for starters.
Meat dishes included grilled buffalo meat served with rosemary potatoes and buffalo meat stew.
For dessert we had cannoli with cream (made out of buffalo milk of course) and fruit.
Coffee, house wine, water and amaro were also included in the very reasonable price of €20.

Via Piemonte 38 - Cda. Magazzè, Ragusa (see map)
Tel +39 0932-664034 / +39 338-719-0914 / +39 349-3321181
Pre-fixed menu €20 per person.

Monsovile:
on the old street from Ragusa to Donnalucata. They have a small zoo where you can see their own farm animals. Via Savonarola 3 - Donnalucata, Ragusa. Closed on Mondays - Tel +39-338-523-6025. Pre-fixed menu €16 per person (last time I was there). (see map)

Rosa Cambra: if you are staying in the seaside, you can try this agriturismo in Santa Croce, near Marina di Ragusa (Km. 0,800). Closed on Wednesdays. Tel: +39-0932-821238.

Al Casale: they mainly serve meat and fish. Marina di Ragusa (Km. 11.500) – Closed on Mondays – Tel: +39-0932-66-4009 (see map)

Agriturismo Lago Santa Rosalia: this agriturismo has a nice view to an artificial lake by a dam. Tel: +39-0932-227-544. (see map)

Thursday, June 28, 2007

Gelato and Granita around Ragusa


The temperature is raising, and you had a day’s worth of that warm Sicilian sun. There is no better way to cool off and beat the heat than by having a Sicilian gelato. They are often hand-made daily in store, and you're not likely to regret a single calorie after tasting them:

ICE CREAM:

Around Ragusa Ibla, you’ll find many ice cream parlors:

There is Gelati DiVini in Piazza San Giorgio: they have a wide variety of flavors you’ll hardly find elsewhere like wine, quince, carob and cactus pear or fichi d’india (this plant is originary from Mexico, but it has found it’s own dimension in Sicily, becoming part of the island’s distinctive landscape.)

Dolce Barocco has what for me is the the best ice cream around Ibla. Try the “dolce barocco” flavour and you can’t go wrong, it’s a copyrighted recipe made with a mix of carob fruit, hazelnut and almond.

Around the seaside, you’ll find good gelato in Marina di Ragusa around the main square (Piazza Duca degli Abruzzi), La Sorbetteria, Caffè delle Rose and Caffè Roma also known as Pippo Boccadifuoco (Pippo Fire-mouth, a funny last name for someone that sells gelato).

But among the local favorites there’s the Blue Moon Gelateria in Donnalucata, Scicli. They have a wide selection of ice cream flavours (44) and allegedly the best pistachio ice cream to be found. I suggest you try it, legions of fans can't be wrong... Open daily. Via Casmene 1, Donnalucata. Tel: +39-339-114-7033.

Eduardo is a renowned pastry shop in Santa Croce that also has really good ice cream. The ricotta flavour being my favourite here. They also have some of the best profiterols in town. Via Roma 53/55, Santa Croce Camerina. Tel: +39-0932-82-1545.

GRANITA:

Granita is not exactly ice cream, it’s a sort of sherbet made of a frozen mix of water, sugar and flavoring. Usually you’ll find coffee, chocolate, pistachio, almond, lemon, strawberry and other fruits.

In an area full of great granita, picking favorites is tough. People will debate over whose are the best, but my personal favorite has to be Mandolfiore in the city of Noto. By all means, try it! The granita is a Sicilian classic, so you shouldn’t leave without at least trying it once.

Pasticceria Mandolfiore: absolutely FANTASTIC granita, by far the best I’ve ever tasted. This is the best kept secret (probably not so secret anymore, since it’s always packed) in the Valle di Noto. You have to walk a little out of the main street to find this place, but it’s really worth it. You’ll find it right across the Carmine Church.

They have a varied assortment of gelato (40 flavours) and granita (15 flavours,) including some creative flavours like peach with basil or cherry tomato with basil that are really good! Ask them to let you taste a few before you order. Almond, ricotta and figs (fichi) flavours are not to be missed. Their pastries are also as good as they seem in the glass display counter.
Via Ducezio 2, Noto, Siracusa – Tel: 0931-836-615

Bar Riviera: this bar in Donnalucata, Scicli has great granita, and it's usually packed in summertime around 5 am with young insomniacs. I recommend the pistachio granita with brioche. Via L. Pirandello 11.

Wednesday, May 30, 2007

Ragusa and Ragusa Ibla Pubs

Here are all of the pubs and clubs in Ragusa and Ragusa Ibla reviewed so far:

Il Lucernaio is a laid back, dimly lighted, non-pretentious pub with a wide bottled beer selection. It also offers wines, cocktails, sandwiches and crepes. Ask for Gianni, who will gladly give you some interesting options and good advice. Via Orfanotrofio 20, Ragusa Ibla. Closed on Tuesdays.

Il Lucernaio's owner Gianni Tumino

Jester Pub I was told this pub and brewery is the main beer supplier of Ragusa. You have to give them credit for that. They have arguably the best range of irish draft beers, as well as whiskey, rum and other spirits. A good place for drinking the night away with friends. Viale Europa 294, upper Ragusa. Tel: +39 0932-252090.

Decanter: (reviewed in the Marina di Ragusa pubs section, but I’ll paste the description here as well so lazy folks don’t have to scroll down to read). Great cocktails served with a smile, while listening to cool music. What else can you ask for? Well… from 7 pm to 9 pm it’s aperitivo time. This is the Italian version of a pre-dinner drink and a snack, but it’s brought to very generous proportions at the Decanter. Basically you order an aperitivo, choose your drink, pick up a plate and taste some delicious hors d'euvres from the buffet. I personally like their Bellini, done with real peaches. Two locations for this lovely pub: one in upper Ragusa at Piazza Cappuccini 22. Tel: +39 338 430 4092. Also by the sea on the pedestrian boardwalk at Marina di Ragusa.

2 Volte this small pub is beautifully done in a very modern way, combining the local white stone with color accents such as wall paintings, blue countertops and red leather booths. There's a TV screen usually showing music videos or fashion shows. Friendly staff, cracking nice music and good aperitivos. The 2 Volte has a good selection of whiskey as well. Via Mariannina Coffa 4. Almost in the corner with Corso Vittorio Veneto in upper Ragusa.

Black & White this recently opened spot, features a black-and-white design scheme and offers theme-nights like Saturday's Argentine night with tango music and a steak and wine dinner for € 20 or Friday nights with guest DJs.
Via Risorgimento 30, Ragusa