Thursday, July 31, 2008

Pubs and bars in Marina di Ragusa

If you come to Ragusa in summertime, you will probably find high temperatures and a desserted city. That's because everybody is cooling off in Marina di Ragusa (Ragusa's seaside). To see map click here. Here are some pubs in Marina, where you can have a drink while watching the sun go down on the sea.

La Raja, Plaja Grande beach

Decanter great cocktails served with a smile, while listening to cool music. What else can you ask for? Well… from 7 pm to 9 pm it’s aperitivo time. This is the Italian version of a pre-dinner drink and a snack, but it’s brought to very generous proportions at the Decanter. Basically you order an aperitivo, choose your drink, pick up a plate and taste some delicious hors d'euvres from the buffet. I personally like their Bellini, done with real peaches. Two locations for this lovely pub: one in upper Ragusa at Piazza Cappuccini 22. Tel: +39 338 430 4092. Also by the sea on the pedestrian boardwalk at Marina di Ragusa.

Charleston not far from the Decanter, and about 50 yards from the main plaza in Marina di Ragusa, the Charleston has modern décor, orange-blue colored walls and sea view. Not an enormous variety of cocktails here but enough if you’re not too picky. It has tables and booths and usually a nice music selection. It’s one of the few pubs in Marina di Ragusa that opens all year round.

Tre Per Caso: By the sea in the pedestrian boardwalk at Marina di Ragusa right between the Decanter and Quattro Quarti. This two story pub is open all year round and has a nice sea-view terrace (closed in winter). They have a good variety of cocktails, and for those ones missing on the menu... they willingly prepared to my specifications a spicy margarita with tabasco sauce.

Anno Zero towards the end of the lungomare A. Doria lays this nice pub with outdoor tables. Loud music, good vibe and ok cocktails. Inside you'll find cool pictures hanging on the yellow walls and some wooden booths on your right hand side. I usually like this place because it's not as packed as the pubs closer to the main square.

Victoria Pub this place is almost hidden… it took me one year to realize it even existed even if I walked by dozens of times! Lungomare A.Doria. It will be on your left hand side walking from the main square, and you have to enter some sort of gallery right next door to a white building with boutiques. It has a more traditional feel with the wooden bar and pool tables on the back. They also make pizzas. Lungomare A. Doria 20 - Tel: +39 338-491-0241

Quattro Quarti Very nice modern all-white décor. Sloooow service, regular food. Packed on summer nights with all the see and be seen crowd. Not really my kind of place, but good enough for people watching. By the sea in the pedestrian boardwalk at Marina di Ragusa steps away from the Decanter.

La Dolce Vita Caffè this cafè has outdoor sitting and it becomes a disco on weekends, although I wasn't too excited about the music selection. You'l find it towards the end of the lungomare A. Doria.

Chalets on the beach:
To drink by the sea, you have another alternative… do as the locals and head to one of the beach huts (chalets nella spiaggia). These are wood constructions with just a floor and a roof (if any) right on the sand. So you can drink al fresco right on the beach, and maybe swim a little if you dare. Some popular “chalets” are:

La Raja (The Sting Ray): This year’s newcomer is located in Plaja Grande. The best description of this chalet would be a lounge bar on the beach. Candles, drapes, chandeliers, a lot of white and a great location by the sea, make this the perfect spot for a relaxed evening watching the sunset while sipping cocktails. Only bar in Ragusa where they serve cosmopolitan, lemon drop or apple martini. The mojitos and fruit cocktails are exellent too, I enjoyed the watermelon coktail even if I'm not a big fan of watermelon.
Opened everyday, all day on summertime.
Driving from Marina di Ragusa towards Donnalucata you’ll see a sign on your right hand side. Get in the trail and drive until you see a ship on the sand, That’s the entrance.
Plaja Grande Beach
Tel: +39 333-7449990

The Margarita, located in the lungomare A. Doria, in Marina di Ragusa, a few blocks from the square. La Ola, always in the lungomare A. Doria (packed on weekends); the Pata Pata (lungomare in Sampieri), and the Tsunami, (Punta Braccetto, about 2 km after Punta Secca, on the way to the beach). By driving around and asking you can find many more, and that can be part of the fun.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Beaches

There are some awesome beaches in Sicily, some of them not really famous but still worth a visit from you sun lovers...

Shoal of Marinello, Messina

Donnalucata
Donnalucata used to be a fishermen’s village, as a matter of fact you can still enjoy their lovely fish market (opened all day during the summer and mornings only year-round). The coastline offers a wide extension of really nice sandy beaches. Located 8 km from Scicli.

Calamosche inside Vendicari
Vendicari is an oasis and natural reserve between Noto and Pachino, you’ll need to make a long walk to reach the Calamosche beach, but it’s really worth it. You’ll find tranquil, crystal-clear water in this beautiful little bay. So far this is the only beach in Sicily where I’ve seen topless sunbathing.
*There are no facilities/amenities near this beach so pack everything in.

Ciriga
Beautiful beach near Ispica’s Santa Maria del Focallo, with sea caves and large rocks on the sea (see picture). There is a marsh nearby (Pantano della Marza) where you can do some birdwatching and see flamingos.
*No facilities/amenities near this beach


Laghetti di Marinello in Oliveri
This natural reserve in the province of Messina, near the town of Tindari, has some patches of typical Mediterranean vegetation, and a long surface of cliffs overlooking the sea. On the base of the hills of Capo Tindari, there are some small salt lakes and the beautiful shoal of Marinello, an ideal place for sunbathing or swimming. This is a pebble beach, so you might want to use your flip flops to reach the water.
*No facilities/amenities near this beach. This is a pebbled beach.

Capo d’Orlando
A popular beach town in Sicily, Messina's Capo d’Orlando offers nice spots for swimming and lovely beaches (both pebbled and sandy).
By now you should know that finding ruins in Sicily is quite easy, and Capo d’Orlando is no exeption, after swimming, you can see the 14th century Capo d'Orlando castle’s ruins and visit the Torre del Trappeto.

Nearby, in the town of San Gregorio, the local fishermen have organized (eco-friendly) tourist fishing, so you can sleep in one of the small fishermen’s houses and get aboard an authentic fishing boat to experience some of the secrets and traditions of this profession.


Sunday, June 1, 2008

Restaurants in or around Ragusa

The idea of this post is to point out restaurants that you probably won't find in any guides, or don't look like anything special from the outside, but serve really good food or are just fun to visit...

Mexican/Latin American
La Cantinita
Reservations are a must on this lively, busy, self proclaimed latin american restaurant. A long time favorite for bachelor parties, birthday parties or just any kind of parties. In fact it’s the perfect place to party while getting wasted on tequila boom boom (*) under a Mexican sombrero. As for the food, it's good, but don’t expect authentic Mexican or Latin American dishes here. The décor is bright and colorful, but I’m sure people come here for the loud and fun atmosphere and don’t really remember much of the surroundings after a few drinks. Just take a look at the TV screen sharing images of customers in various grades of alcoholic intoxication. Try “el fuego della Cantinita,” a shot of kalua and tequila “on fire” (as seen in the picture).
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La Cantinita is located in Via Venezia 18, Marina di Ragusa.
Tel: +39 0932 616506.

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(*) Tequila Boom Boom: pour equal parts of tequila and tonic water in a shot glass, cover with a napkin or with your bare palm, and slam the glass down on the table twice. Make sure the drink fizzes. Drink in one gulp.

Sicilian/Local food
U Saracinu
Centrally located in Ragusa Ibla near the main church of San Giorgio, this restaurant serves typical sicilian food with a broad range of great home-made pasta and a good selection of local wines. I recommend the grilled ragusano cheese with honey. The waiter gives friendly service and good advice.
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Via Convento 9, Ragusa Ibla
Tel: +39 0932 246976

Seafood / Fish
La Falena
This restaurant isn’t really inviting if you see it from the outside or, for that matter, even from the inside. The fact that it’s located right next door to a gas station doesn’t help either, but… the seafood and fish are excellent. Try the “peppata di cozze” (mussels soup) or the “dentice al sale” dentex fish cooked in a salt crust.
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Via Porto Venere, Marina di Ragusa
Tel: +39 0932 239321

Pizza
La Valle
This unattractive neighborhood pizzeria, looks just like it looked back in the 70’s (and I mean the bad 70’s decoration). But the pizza is wood-fire cooked, with thin crust and, oh yes, really good. Besides it’s one of the few pizzerias that’s opened for lunch.
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Via Risorgimento 70, Ragusa
Tel. +39 0932 229341

Other food
Ibla bla
Built inside a beautiful ancient stone building (originally a mill) in the historic Ragusa Ibla, this two-story restaurant serves all kind of food from pizza to cous cous. Closed on Tuesdays.
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Piazza Republica, Ragusa Ibla.
Tel: +39 0932 651888.

Quick Bites
Food & Style
Nice, minimalist, modern white-ish décor, in an underground bar-cafè. They have a great selection of tea and iced-tea, decent coffee and the pizza was surprisingly good. I specially enjoy the delicious nero fondente or the cremino, 2 creamy cold coffee drinks topped with chocolate or hazelnut cream made by national chocolate producers Eraclea.
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Via G. di Vittorio 63, Ragusa
Tel: +39 0932 246477

This list will continue to grow and get updated as I keep eating out….

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

These are my top 5 romantic getaways in Sicily:

Ok so after Valentine's Day, and to continue with the romantic vibe, here are some special places in Sicily for creating the spark between you and your partner...

Taormina, love at first sight
Beautiful rocky cliffs overlooking a deep blue sea. Noisy streets full of charming boutiques, good looking people and, of course, vespa scooters buzzing around. A magnificently located, greek theater dating from the 3rd century, that has become one of the most famous Sicilian monuments, all surrounded by crystal clear water and bays.
Yes, it is kind of turisty, but definitely a must-see in Sicily because of the sheer beauty of the setting. You won’t regret…

Erice, a cozy retreat
This small town has been called by many “the pearl of Sicily.” Situated at about 4 miles from Trapani, it is definitely worth a visit. Wheter you are a honeymooner or you’ve just filed for your third divorce, Erice’s medieval appeal will charm the coldest of hearts. The narrow streets and the two beautiful castles are just breathtaking… seriously, after walking up the slope you WILL need to catch your breath.

Cefalù laid back romance
Sandy beaches, peace and quiet together with spectacular sea views. And if you miss good ol' city life, well you’re a short drive from Palermo. This seaside town has a charming historic center, an ancient Greek temple and many attractions including delightful restaurants overlooking the coast. People here seem to be on vacation all-year-round, it’s all about relaxing and having a laid-back beach attitude.

Castello di Falconara… if you like fairy tales
The Falconara Castle is nowadays a lodging structure that rents rooms and apartments or is available for receptions. As a matter of fact, the whole castle can be rented (not that I ever did). I usually don’t talk about hotels, but this place has such a dramatic setting, that I thought I should mention it. The castle dates from the 14th century and it seats on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea. It’s located near Butera in the province of Caltanissetta.


Pantelleria Island, a great place for kissing
Pantelleria is an island formed by a dormant volcano located in the Sicily Channel. You can describe it as a place where the Arab culture meets its Mediterranean counterpart; all over the island you’ll see ancient Arab constructions (dammusi) built with the local stone. A typical house in Pantelleria will be a square building with thick walls and a cistern on the roof to collect rainwater. The coast is rocky all around, so don’t expect sandy beaches. A good way to explore the island is renting a quad and just driving around the countryside or stopping along the coast in every spot that you like. For a romantic evening, I recommend sipping bellinis as the sun goes down on the terrace of the “U Friscu” caffè.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Some interesting facts about Italy:

  1. Italians used to have large families, however Italy is now known for having Europe's lowest birthrate.
  2. The average Italian family has 1.27 children.
  3. Almost 20% of the population is over 65 years old.
  4. The average Italian consumes 25 kilograms (56 pounds) of pasta a year.
  5. Italy's contributions to science include the typewriter, the thermometer, the electric battery, nitroglycerin, eyeglasses and wireless telegraphy.
  6. Not less important… the ice cream cone is also an Italian invention.
  7. Leonardo da Vinci (1452- 1519) was one of the greatest inventors of history. His designs include (only to mention a few) parachutes, tanks, planes, water drills, swing bridges, bicycles and contact lenses.
  8. The Italian flag is inspired by the French flag introduced during Napoleon's invasion of the peninsula.
  9. Italy is the fourth most visited country in the world.
  10. Italy has more hotel rooms than any other nation in Europe.
  11. The average Italian consumes about 100 liters (26 gallons) of wine a year! ...now that explains a lot about Italian driving.
  12. Italy is the world's fifth largest industrial economy.
  13. The area around Venice is the wealthiest region in Europe.
  14. Barely a third of Italy's land is suitable for farming.
  15. Italy has a resident foreign population of 1.27 million.
  16. 98% of Italians are Roman Catholic.
  17. The colors of the Italian flag represent three virtues: hope (green), faith (white), and charity (red).

Thursday, January 24, 2008

Ragusa Ibla Walking Tour:

Hey there! It's been a while, but I'm back with my suggested Ragusa Ibla walking tour (click on the map to enlarge):


1- Take Corso Mazzini downwards towards Ibla. You’ll arrive to a small square. You’ll see the Church of the Madonna dell'Idria. Built in the 14th century, this church belonged to the legendary Knights of Malta (if you read Dan Brown and you’re drawn to templar-conspiracy theories, you’ll probably enjoy this detail). It’s name (from greek) stands for “She who shows the way”. The church was restored in the 18th century in the late baroque style that characterizes the entire Val di Noto.

2- Next to the church you’ll see Palazzo Cosentini with some interesting balconies featuring grotesque masks.

3- Keep going on Via del Mercato you’ll arrive to a square. On your right, you’ll see the Church of the Anime Sante del Purgatorio (Church of the Holy Souls of Purgatory) on top of a flight of stairs. The church's bell tower's has its foundations on one of Ibla's ancient Byzantine walls.

4- A few yards from the church you’ll see the 18th century Palazzo Sortino Trono, another example of local Baroque architecture.

5- Keep walking along Via Del Mercato and turn right on any of the narrow streets until you reach Via Capitan Occhipinti. You’ll find the main square Piazza Duomo ending in Ibla’s centrepiece, the Chiesa di San Giorgio (St. George’s Church). Built by siracusan architect Rosario Gagliardi. The church was built in the 18th century on the site where an older church stood before the 1693’s earthquake. The dome was a later addition of architect Carmelo Cultrari and was finished in the 19th century.

6- Turn your back to San Giorgio’s Church and keep walking towards Piazza Pola. On your right you’ll see another couple of interesting buildings: The Circolo di Conversazione (a sort of private gentleman’s club unfortunately not open to the public).

7- And the Palazzo Donnafugata.

8- On your left you’ll see another church (it seems you can never have enough churches in Italy) the Church of San Giuseppe

9- And the Palazzo Comunale (the City Hall).

10- Following Corso 25 Aprile and then Via Giardini, guess what you’ll see? Yup, yet another Church, the Church of Santo Tomasso on your left.

11- Keep going ‘till you find yourself in front of a gated park called Giardino Ibleo. The garden is very pleasant and it also contains… not one but THREE churches (I rest my case). The first one is the Church of San Domenico.

12- The second one is the Church of San Giacomo, originally built in the 14th century, the interior has a beautiful ceiling painted by Matteo Battaglia.

13- The third church inside the gardens is the Church of the Cappucini. All three churches had to be rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake.

14- Right outside the park, on your left, you’ll find Il Portale di San Giorgio (Saint George’s Doorway) built in Gothic style, it depicts St. George slaying the dragon. It’s all that remained of the ancient Church of Saint George, after the earthquake.

Enjoy!

Sunday, September 9, 2007

For cheese lovers only


As promised, here’s some info about cheese:

Casa del Formaggio Sant'Anna di Dipasquale: (THE cheese house). Definitely one of the best places to buy cheese in Ragusa

I know they sell one of the best “Ragusano DOP” cheese in the area, and "Pecorino Siciliano" (made with sheep milk). Also I suggest you try one of the wine spreads they sell that you can eat with the cheese. I tried the Zibibbo and Pasito wine spreads (Zibibbo and Pasito are desert wines from Sicily).

Casa del Formaggio Sant'Anna di Dipasquale
Corso Italia 387, Ragusa - Tel: 0932 227485

The Azienda Occhipinti is is a rural farm that make different types of cheese, they might show you how they make their cheese if you call them in advance and ask when it would be best to come. I don’t believe they have anything organised like a tour or so, but possibly they will show you around anyway. They might not speak English though.

Azienda Agro-zootecnica Giuseppe Occhipinti
Contrada San Giacomo - 97100 Ragusa
Tel: 0932 231669

The Corfilac is a good place to see how cheese is made. Every 2 years the Corfilac organises a great event in Ragusa called Cheese Art, between June and July. The next one will be in 2008. They have cheese, wine and beer tasting and pairing, you can buy cheese, wine, salami and other related stuff. They have experts explaining the main features of different kinds of cheese from around the world and, of course, local ones. There’s also live music, plays, etc. Last year it was organised in the gardens of the beautiful Donnafugata Castle.

Corfilac Headquarters: S.P. 25 Km 5 Ragusa Mare 97100 Ragusa (on the street from Ragusa to Marina di Ragusa) Tel: +39 0932 660 411 • Cheese department: +39 0932 660 484/+39 0932 660 485. Call first for an appointment.

Another must while in Sicily is the Ricotta cheese. Ricotta is a fresh cheese made of sheep or cow’s milk. It’s name comes from the fact that it’s ingredients need to be cooked twice. In Sicily they have Italy’s most famous ricotta, and they use it in different ways: sweet ricotta (the ricotta cannoli are amazing here), dry ricotta (ricotta salata) used for pasta alla norma, or fresh ricotta with sun dried tomatos or alone. You can try it in any agriturismo or buy it in any supermarket, farm or cheese shop.